Tokyo Heart

The Wheels of Justice

An autumn day, a long straight road in Hokkaido, not another car in sight and off we went!  With my
rental car's wheels eating up the road at 625 revolutions per kilometer I was zipping down the highway on the way to Niseko. Whoa! What was that red flash? Uh-oh! The infra-red camera on the overhead stanchion just took my picture.  And a pretty clear picture - good likeness - it was as I eventually found out.

Those 625 revolutions per minute turned out to be 92 kilometers per hour on a highway with a posted speed of 50 km per hour. Now, the police do have some allowance for lead footed drivers, but it turns out that allowance is only 10 km. Which means I was 32 km over the "allowable" amount. And so the saga begins. 

A few weeks after returning to Tokyo from that September drive I got a phone call from a friendly policeman (everyone was friendly throughout this whole process) in Hokkaido informing me he had a picture of me, my rented car, and a little odometer in the corner of the picture showing 92 km
per hour. We talked for about 30 minutes (in Japanese since he spoke no English) and what could I do but admit that yep, it was me, and yep, I saw the red light flash, and yep, I guess I was speeding. I told him why - figured he needed something to talk to the other cops about the rest of the day.  Okay, he said and told me that the next step would be a notice in the mail and a visit to my neighborhood police headquarters since I had no plans to be back in Hokkaido in the near future.

So, a couple of months later, in November, I got that postcard and off to Takaido police station I went (after making an appointment, of course). I had a nice "chat" with the traffic officer there and he
kindly wrote out my statement for me, which he then read back to me, and I put my "hanko" on it to approve it.  Yeah, that sure was a pretty clear picture of me and my wife in that little car.

 A couple of months later, in February, I got a post card that this level of law-breaking activity (remember, I was 32 km over the allowable limit) meant 6 points against my license and a 30 day suspension of my license (no mention of the fine yet). The post card was in Japanese, but they had a
sentence in red (in Japanese of course) that said "If you don't understand Japanese bring your own interpreter."  Okay, so if you don't read Japanese how are you supposed to know about that?  Hello, does the word "logic" mean anything to anyone out there?  

Anyhow, the card said I could spend the day in the Chofu driver's license center, taking a "remedial" course, for which I had the honor to fork out 13,800 yen. Taking, and passing, the course meant I could probably erase the points and cut the license suspension down to one day. Off I went early in the morning to be there in time for the 08:30 registration start (no car allowed that day!). As I walked up to the window to register I was immediately pulled aside, in a friendly manner, and asked if I understand Japanese since the whole day's course would be only in Japanese.  Assuring them I did I was next asked if I read Japanese because there was a 40 questions test at the end of the day and
the time limit for that was only 30 minutes. Well, yes, I do read some Japanese, but I told them I reckon it isn't good enough to ensure that I could get through all 40 questions in the time allowed, so we both really h'mmed and hawed about that. With a look of great consternation on his face the official took me up a floor where I was asked the same question and gave the same answer. After much sucking of air the other official asked if I read English.  Assuring him that I do he said that's good because they also have the test in English (as it turns out they gave me both the English and the Japanese copy during the test - good thing they did because I had to refer to the Japanese for a handful of the questions in order to understand the "English"). 

Just in case you ever have to do this here is what the one day course consists of: 

1. Morning:  lectures on the driving rules and regulations. Listen carefully because they will
actually be telling you the questions and answers to that test you'll be taking later. 

2. Lunch break. There's a cafeteria downstairs in the basement. 

3. After lunch: more lecture, more hints for the test. 

4. Driving around the course taking turns with your fellow traffic criminals and an examiner (when you get to the fake railroad crossing make sure you stop, open both front windows, and state that you are listening for the train - because that first train in the morning just might zip through without
tripping the signal).  Then a few minutes on the simulator, which is actually harder than real driving! 

5. Written test. 

6. Movie time - watch what traffic law disobedience can cause.  

7. Test results. Assuming you've passed (I did, scored 100) you will be told that the points have been erased and you can drive again after midnight.  But, for the next one year, if you accumulate 4 points you'll get to do this all over again - but for two days! 

8. Down to the window, pick up your license, go home. 

So, you thought it was all over?  Oh... no...! Not yet! 

Next comes a postcard (about a week or so later) telling you to go to the Prosecutor's Office where you'll spend another hour or two restating the facts of your crime. Here, at least, if you don't speak Japanese they will provide an interpreter.  The prosecutor inputs your statement into the computer, prints out a copy, and you hanko it (or sign it if you don't have a hanko).  You are then given a choice of going to court and arguing your case (good luck with that!) or saying no thanks, just send me the fine. 

A couple more weeks go buy and you'll get a registered letter telling you how much your fine is. In my case, first offense, stated guilty as charged, it is 60,000 yen (cost to date, 73,800 + train fares, so
about $1,000).  Oh, you do get the option of paying the fine or working it off in some sort of community work (somebody's gotta pick up all that trash the "nature lovers" in Japan toss out of
their car windows) at the rate of 5,000 yen per day. The prosecutor assured me that if I decided to do this it wouldn't be like the movies with a chain around my leg swinging a big hammer and breaking rocks! 

So that's the end of it, right?  Wrong! That's just the letter telling me what the fine is and a note in it (in Japanese, of course) telling me that I'll get another letter telling me how to go about paying my fine.  Oh boy! I can hardly wait!  But, meanwhile, you can bet I'll lighten up the old lead foot and stop for those red lights!

 

 

Hina Matsuri (Dolls Day Festival)



Today, March 3rd, is Girls' Day in Japan. It's also called Hina Matsuri (Doll Festival).

Those who have sets of Hina Dolls display them in their homes on a platforms - in steps - and the steps are covered with a red cloth. The dolls are called hina-ningyoh.   They represent the Emporer, the Emporess, and their attendants. The dolls are typically dressed in traditional royal court dress replicant of Japan's Heian period, which is when the practice of displaying these dolls started.

In those days people believed the dolls possessed the power to protect against bad spirits.

The stores in Tokyo were quite crowded today as people went about buying some of the traditional foods and snacks served on this day. For example, colored hina arare, which are small crackers flavored with sugar or soy sauce and and hishimochi, a diamond-shaped colored rice cake.  People also eat Chirashizushi (sushi rice flavored with sugar, vinegar, and topped with raw fish and other ingredients).

A soup called ushiojiru containing hamaguri (clams) in the shell is also served. Clam shells in food are deemed the symbol of a united and peaceful couple, because a pair of clam shells fits perfectly, and no pair but the original pair can do so.

Families generally start to display the dolls in February and take them down immediately after the festival. A Japanese superstition says that leaving the dolls on display past March 4 will result in a late marriage for daughters in the family.

This day is also called momo no sekku (Peach Festival)" because of the peach blossom season on the old lunar calendar. In fact, I bought branches of peach blossoms for my wife today so we can display them in our home.

When our girls were small, and living at home, my wife and our daughters would enjoy taking the dolls from their storage boxes each year and arranging them on their special stand. My wife still displays the dolls, but in a smaller fashion, as well as decorating with the peach blossom branches.

You can buy your own set of hina dolls in most department stores in Japan or in any of the stores that specialize in ningyo (dolls). A traditional set of dolls can be very expensive. There are various grades for the sets, and some full sets will set you back a pretty yen as they cost more than a million yen (US$12,000). Of course, there are much cheaper sets, and even some made of paper, but those won't - naturally - last very long. And, you can buy a royal couple only version, with only the Emperor and the Empress dolls.

Of course, the boys have their day too. Well, at least it used to be called boys' day, but not it has become children's day - that's coming up May 5th. I'll write more about that when the time comes.

Meanwhile - happy Dolls Day! And, here is a picture of a full 7 tiered set of the dolls.

 

Those Setsubun Beans

With freezing temperatures in Tokyo, and even some snow just a few days ago, it's hard to believe that the first day of spring is just around the corner.

But, February 3 is Setsubun (seasonal division). In its association with Chinese New Year (Lunar New Year) Setsubun used to be thought of as a type of New Year's eve.  This was accompanied by a special ritual to cleanse away all the evil - clean out the bad spirits of the old year -  and drive away disease-bringing bad spirits for the new year

This special ritual is called mamemaki, which means bean throwing (maki can also mean scatter or plant, but in this case the beans are thrown). 

If you want to keep it really traditional the bean throwing should be performed by the toshiotoko of the house. The toshiotoko is the male who was born on the corresponding animal year on the Chinese Zodiac (this year is the year of the dragon), or if there is no toshiotoko the male head of the household can throw the beans. The best beans to use are roasted soybeans, known as "fortune beans (fuku mame). These can be purchased in many stores. The beans are usually thrown out the door, but they may also be thrown at a member of the family wearing a  demon mask (also available in a variety of stores, temples, or shrines), while the people throwing the beans say "Oni wa soto! Fuku wa Uchi!" (Demons out! Good luck in!)

 [Oni (Demon) Mask]

The beans are supposed to do a purification of the home by driving away the demons (the evil spirits) that bring bad luck and bad health. After throwing the beans many people eat roasted soy beans; one for each year of one's life, and one more for bringing good luck for the new year.

Some shrines and temples will have Setsubun ceremonies too where priests and special guests will throw roasted soy beans (some may even be wrapped in gold or silver foil), or small envelopes with money, candies and other small prizes. Some of the bigger shrines might invite celebrities and/or sumo wrestlers. Check a shrine or temple near you to see if any Setsubun ceremony is going on - it's another good Japan photo opportunity.

 

Western Holidays in Japan

Japan has 15 national holidays per year. This compares to 10 in the USA and France and 16 in India. In addition to national holidays many companies in Japan close for several more days during Oshogatsu (New Year) and Obon (in July).

Very few of these Japanese national holidays serve any commercial purpose with the exception of sales for travel agencies during Golden Week (April - May), osetchi ryori (traditional New Year's food) sales during the new year, beauty salons for coming of age day, and perhaps some presents for  children on children's day.  

On the other hand, adoption of western holidays seems to be solely meant to open the purse strings of Mrs. Suzuki and all her family and relatives.  Christmas, one of the west's most holy holidays is not much more than a season to sell cakes, toys, and other presents here in Japan (of course, it's exploited for pretty much the same reasons in the west).  

When we lived in Japan in the 1980s the only Halloween costumes we saw were on the American children in our neighborhood who went to school parties, or to a few home parties, and maybe a bit of door-to-door Trick or Treating in the neighborhoods with high foreigner populations.  That has certainly changed! Now, even driving out in the countryside I have seen pumpkins carved with various designs  - some typical, some not. There are even costume parades in many areas and of course, many bars take advantage of the "holiday" to hold costume parties and offer special Halloween drinks.

I asked a few friends - Japanese and foreigners - what they think of this growing trend of adopting foreign holidays in Japan.  Below are the responses (J = Japanese; F = Foreigner):

F:  most Western holiday celebrations here are simply the fondest dreams of merchants coming true. Valentine's Day,  Halloween and Christmas are great opportunities for any company that deals in romance, confections or toys to suck in some major cash. 

F: Christmas that starts in November, Santa dressed in blue, yucky cream sponge cakes, and celebrating in bars on Christmas "ibu," [eve] work as usual December 25, Christmas dinner with sushi on the table - these are the only times I've ever felt homesick in Japan. I sometimes wonder how the Japanese would feel if we all suddenly started doing Bon-odori in gaudy yukata wearing shoes and socks and with a brass band thrown in Times Square or Piccadilly Circus. All put together by commercial interests of course!

J: Halloween has become a profitable business for bars and pubs. The Halloween party is now adopted as a seasonal event in bar businesses.  St. Valentine's day brought profit to chocolate makers and it seems that there are businesses behind the newly introduced holidays. Since the mid-80’s, the Affiliation of Book Stores Union is attempting to promote Saint George's Day in April as a day for presenting books to loved ones. It seems they have been unsuccessful though.  I wonder what holidays we Japanese will be “adopting” next.  

J: I read in a book that few holidays tap into the American psyche so closely as Halloween. I cannot understand why this is so. My guess is that the spirits of ancestors of both immigrants from abroad and native Indians might all be there to act on inhabitants to celebrate the unity of all people.

J: Personally it is OK with me.  Japanese have always been a very flexible people. And the advertisers and merchants want to take advantage of any reason to make a special day to sell special items. So I expect that there will be more and more. They may introduce, Chinese new year plus The Songkran of Thailand, Mahatma Gandhi Day? Ramadan? Who knows?

F: I don't mind.  The more the merrier.  I just wish that those adopting someone else's holidays also try to understand the origins and rationale for those holidays.  I'm not saying that those from the countries where the holidays come from understand their own holidays either.  Take Japanese holidays.  After talking to several young Japanese, I realized that I know more about the origins of their holidays than they do.  But if someone were to adopt the ways of somebody else, at least he must know what exactly it is he is adopting.

J: In my view, Japanese adoption of many western holidays has gone a bit too far. In essence, such adoption has been limited to  commercial/business effect of such holidays without much appreciation of the spiritual/social backgrounds of such holidays in their original jurisdictions.

ME-RI KU-RI-SU-MA-SU EVERYONE!

Heartful try at Texas BBQ in Tokyo

I gave the new Texas BBQ restaurant in Azabu Juban a try today – their first day of serving lunch. Obviously, there are many kinks for them to work out yet. I can’t say I fully recommend it, but you can give it a try and “rate” for yourself if want to after reading this.

What works:

1. Friendly owner, Craig White
2. Um, that’s about all

What doesn’t work (yet, hope time will improve it):

1. Surly wait staff (other than Craig). Nary a smile in the bunch; what, they left their happy faces at home this first day of lunch business?
2. Tinny music – either the speakers are low quality, or the volume is too loud, or just bad acoustics?
3. Pulled Pork (menu item) – a bit bland – I even asked Craig if the recipe has been “localized” but he said not so (sounds like they may still be experimenting with the flavor).
4. Small portions – maybe a small sandwich and what may be Tokyo’s smallest portion of coleslaw (positive note, the coleslaw was tasty) will fill up a 42 kg. Japanese woman, but the guys (and ladies with bigger appetites) are gonna leave there definitely unsatisfied.
5. Tiny menu selection – 2 items (BBQ Beef & above Pulled Pork). But, Craig says they are adding a BLT with home cured bacon later this week or next. (Wonder how that portion will be…?). Some baked beans to go with the BBQ would be nice…
6. Price – too much for lunch, especially given the portions. 1200 yen for the beef & 1100 for the pork (and that teensy-weensy serving of slaw) – coffee an extra 200 yen (maybe the next time the waiter will remember to bring the milk so my guest doesn’t have to walk over and ask for it). Over priced for the neighborhood – for anywhere in Tokyo, for that matter, for this style restaurant. There are (literally) dozens of places in the vicinity to have lunch (with more food) for well under that price – including coffee.
7. What happened to my reservation? First day foul-up perhaps, and fortunately I was early enough that we got a decent table, but I had reserved to take a friend there for a birthday, which Craig acknowledged when I made the reservation a week ago. Most restaurants in Tokyo will offer the birthday guest a dessert or small treat to celebrate, but not so at White Smoke – at least not for this guest’s birthday. Not even a “happy birthday” to my guest even though I reminded Craig that I was there to buy a friend a birthday lunch. Guess where I will NOT be taking anyone else for their birthday.

Overall rating = 1 star out of 5. Give it a try if you just have to see what Texas BBQ is (supposed to be) about, but don’t go with great hopes and expectations. Maybe dinner is better. I haven’t tried that and not sure if I will given today’s experience.

In case you do want to try it the location is 3-11-2 Moto Azabu, Minato Ku, Tokyo. Mime Azabu Building, 1st floor. That’s in Azabu Juban almost near the end of the main shopping street that runs from exit #4 of the Azabu Juban Station.

Out to Pasture?

According to a recent report in the Nikkei, McDonald's in Japan is reinstating a mandatory retirement age of 60 from next year (Jan. 2012). The supposed intent is to 'nurture younger workers within McDonald's corporate culture.' In fact, this year McDonald's started appointing age 20-something employees to management level positions. They say that shows that they are placing more importance on promoting younger staff. 

Seven years ago McDonald's was actually considered an innovative company because they instituted a performance based wage system vs the traditional seniority system (pay per number of years there).  Then, in 2006 they abolished forced retirement.

Now, the company says they "moved too quickly" by shifting emphasis to individual performance and they should have waited till they had a process in the corporate culture to groom successors. So, now they will add one's ability to groom successors for their jobs to the evaluation system.

The average age of McDonald's employees in Japan is around 35-36. Those who are age 60 will be permitted to stay for another year or more. And, since the labor law in Japan does have an age discrimination clause, they will introduce a system for rehiring workers who are not yet 65 on one-year contracts.

By the way in case you were wondering - about 23% of Japan's poplulation (about 29 million people) is over 65 and that will grow to nearly 40% by 2050. But, do they buy burgers 'n fries? Maybe not. The burger buying population, assuming they are mainly in the 15-40 age range is about 18 million.

So, is McDonald's really making progress with this move or are they just perpetrating more of that oh-so-common-issue in Japan, worker age discrimination...

 

 

A Jindaiji Sunday

A sunny August Sunday.

10 km bike ride to Jindaiji temple & botanical garden park (the temple was founded in 733 - second oldest in Tokyo after Asakusa's famous Onarimon).

Lunch under a canopy of trees in a soba restaurant that is "hidden" behind the cemetary. Okay, not very well hidden since there is a sign (in Japanese only) pointing to it.  Cold soba dipped in a light soy sauce broth with a side of lightly battered tempura and a plate of oden (normally a winter dish, but good most any time of the year). A cold Kirin Lager for me and bottle of Jindaiji Beer for Madam Wife to chase it down (well earned beers after the bike ride!).

Smoke wafting from the firepit on the trail just above the soba restaurant helped keep the mosquitos at bay - only had to shoo 3 of them away. I refuse to share my lunch - and my blood - with these little bug(gers).

The cicadas serenaded us throughout lunch - the cicada's "song" is the true sound of summer in Japan. The cicadas in Tokyo this year are said to be "kuma-semi" - or "bear cicada" - the largest of the species in Japan. I've seen a couple of them lying on our balcony - they fell out of the trees that front our property - yep, they're big this year!

Took a bit longer route home through Mitaka and Inokashira Park and a stop-by in Hamadayama to sample a couple of Baskin-Robins 31's flavors - also well deserved after the 10+ km bike ride back (at least, well deserved in MY humble opinion!). Oh well, there goes the calories lost in the bike ride.....

Not a bad way to spend a few hours on a sunny Sunday in August in Tokyo.

One more reason why we live in Japan

Down to the garage, into the car, and off to the movie we went. Or so we thought. Turned the key. Nothing. Uh-oh. I knew that battery had been sounding a bit weak the last few days! A quick phone call to the and a promise to come to our place and install a new battery while we caught the train to Roppongi and the theater dealer - see the advantage to having your car serviced by the dealer every few months? And to having a condo concierge so we could leave the key. Home from the show and, yep! new battery installed. Wonder if we could get that same sort of service if we lived in the USA? Sure, there's AAA, but you've got to wait for them to show up, just like you would JAF in Japan.

Oh, the movie? The Tree of Life. My rating - 2 out of 5 stars, but I reckon Madam Wife rates it higher.

 

In September 2010 China made the decision to stop shipments of rare earth to Japan. The stoppage lasted for two months. The breakdown in the international relationship came when Japanese authorities arrested a Chinese fishing boat captain whose boat had collided with two Japanese Coast Guard ships. The fishing boat and the Coast Guard ships were within the vicinity of a group of small islands that both countries lay claim to. The islands are known as the Senkaku Islands in Japan and the  Diaoyu Islands in China.

 

Rare earth metals are a set of seventeen chemical elements in the scientific table. They are used in a wide variety of technology goods including monitors, DVD players, smartphones, tablet PCs such as the iPad, and especially in the nickel metal hydride batteries that are needed to run hybrid cars. They even have military uses such as in missile guidance systems. When supplies are cut off manufacturers can quickly run through their stockpiles.

China has been producing about 95% of the rare earths mined and sold around the globe with Japan being the biggest importer for the last several years.  Although the USA actually has some of the largest known deposits of rare earth elements it has also been importing most of its rare earth needs from China since the 1990s , according to the U.S. Geological Survey, when Chinese companies increased production and drove down prices. U.S. mining companies found it hard to compete with these prices. However, with worldwide demand expected to grow from 125,000 tons in 2010 to 225,000 tons by 2015, the rare earth oxides facility at Mountain Pass, California is being reopened. The first phase of its mining project is expected to be operational by next year after nearly a decade of no production in the U.S.

China's dominance may soon be coming to an end though with Japanese scientists' discovery of huge deposits of the minerals in mud on the ocean floor in international waters near Hawaii. This discovery could expand the known deposits of rare earth materials by a thousand times. University of Tokyo associate professor Yasuhiro Kato has been quoted as saying, "The deposits have a heavy concentration of rare earths. Just one square kilometer (0.4 square mile) of deposits will be able to provide one-fifth of the current global annual consumption." Kato led the team that made the discovery. The finding is detailed in the scientific journal Nature Geoscience, and the deposits can apparently be easily extracted.

 

 

Want a free umbrella?

Pedaling away, off we went under a leaden sky, no raincoats, no ponchos, no umbrellas. Destination.....one of our favorite soba (buckwheat noodles) shops for a Sunday afternoon lunch. We figured we could get there, eat, and get back home before the rain started.  WRONG!

As we finished our meal we could hear the rain drumming against the wooden facade of the soba shop. We figured we could wait it out & ride our bikes home with no more than a bit of dampness. WRONG AGAIN!

As we paid our bill we asked the shop assistant if there was a 7-11 or something similar nearby where we could buy an umbrella. Rather than direct us to a store the shop owner volunteered a couple of umbrellas that had been left behind by other customers in the past. We said we would return them, but no need, said the waiter. These were spares that, if they didn't give them away, they would have to discard. One was actually a pretty nice umbrella - fashionable and probably fairly expensive when bought. The other was very serviceable. In fact, the waiter opened up and tested the umbrellas before giving them to us - he even discarded one of those "throw-away" type that are so often abandoned here & there in Japan - the clear plastic ones that sell for 100-300 yen. (Oh, and this is where the title of this posting comes from - it's not the first time I've been given an umbrella by a restaurant - so if you're caught out without one when the rain starts - and you're in a restaurant just ask where you can get an umbrella. Chances are you'll be offered one, at least here in Japan, that is.)

Well, riding home holding an umbrella was a first for me. I've seen people doing this hundreds of times, but I never figured it was something I would want to try. The gusting winds made it a bit more of a hassle, but all-in-all it was easier than I had thought it would be, cramped right hand not withstanding.

Now, if I had only had a umbrella attendant like the one in the picture below.....

Hearts in Tohoku

The road from Nikko to Lake Chuzenji used to have 48 curves. That has been mercifully cut down to 30 - but many of them are switchbacks. We've been on that road when it takes 2+ hours to travel the 14 or so kilometers.

Now, with few people willing to visit Tohoku, which is where the lake is located - even though it is about 160 kilometers from the damaged nuclear plant - the drive time is much shorter. Today it only took about 20 minutes and the parking lots that are normally overflowing were either completely deserted or only held a few cars (and most of those were trout fishermen).

Sadly, for the businesses that depend on the tourists coming in to spend a few yen, the number of people visiting the region is way down. We stopped for lunch in a restaurant on a hill overlooking Lake Chuzenji and there were only about 10 customers in the place - they have room for a couple hundred as they usually get buses full of customers.

We went on up the road to Yu-no-ko (Lake Yu), which is a small lake with a loverly waterfall at the southern end that drops 70 meters from the lake to the base. The air has a slight sulphur smell thanks to the hot springs in the area - thus the lake's name - which means "warm (or hot) water" - even though the water is not really hot in the lake. It's not so cold either and there are 4 species of trout in the lake. There were several people fishing today. Some in boats, some in waders, some from the shore and most all were catching a few trout.

Photos below are from Lake Yu.

Unfortunately, the drive home wasn't quite as smooth as someone decided to crash & burn (well, we don't know if they burned - sure hope not) on the Tohoku Expressway and there was one area of 14 kilometers that was going to take 2 hours to cover.  No way! We got off the highway & took the local roads. I don't know that we saved any time, but it was more interesting than sitting on the expressway watching the back end of the car in front of us for 2 or more hours.

This sign tells us that Mt. Nantai, a sacred mountain is what we can see in the distance & it tells us that the lake is 1,475 meters above sea level.

Actual photo of Mr. Nantai - way back behind the lake

The southern end of Lake Yu - where the waterfall starts

Trout fishing on Lake Yu

Lake cat - Where's my fish!!??

Lake stump!

Winter took a toll on the tree around the lake.

Golden Week - Day 2 - means 2 Scoops

Golden Week - day 2 - out & about & enjoying a warm & sunny wonderful spring day:

> Bike ride through Wadabori Park & along the Zempukuji River - well, many years ago it was a river - now it's lined in concrete like a canal - but still a great place to walk / ride / jog. Lined with sakura trees, plenty of grassy areas, many people picnicking along the river today.

> Circled the ponds that are the source of the Zempukuji - folks with tripods & cameras hoping to get shots of the birds that nest in the reeds of the ponds

> On over to Kichijoji for a cruise through a very crowded Inokashira Park. Musicians, magicians, story tellers, flea markets, and more - something for everybody.

>Then, on to a soba lunch at Yoshimura along Inokashira Dori - as they say on their card, "proudly serving fine soba and sake for three generations." And yes - it is very good soba (and the cold Heartland draft beer goes well with it)

> Wheeled on down the road to Hamadayama for two scoops at the recently opened Baskin-Robbins

> Figured after that late soba lunch I'd be too full to do dinner - but Madam Wife knew better - she did up a nice cheese & light foods dish that went well with the glass of La Cabotte (courtesy of our favorite wine merchant Eric Dahler - you can find him here on FB if you want a good wine merchant)

> A bit of 'puter time & that's the day. No traffic jams to fight, no reservations to worry about. Yep - a pretty good Golden Week day!

Chichibu - spring blossoms - photos

Situated in western Saitama Prefecture the Chichibu region (and the city of Chichibu) lies to the west-northwest of Tokyo. That was our destination today as we set out on a bright & sunny Easter Sunday morning for a drive to the low-elevation Okuchichibu mountains of the area.

Since we went by car we made our way out the Chuo Expressway to the Ken-Oh Expressway link where we headed north. Exiting at the Iruma interchange we were very thankful that we weren't headed south like the bumper-to-bumper line of cars making their way to the outlet mall in Iruma City. The heavy traffic meant well over an hour of inching along for those folks headed in that direction before they would even get to the mall and then who-knows-how-long before they could get a parking space. Been there. Done that. No thank you ma'am! Never again!

The sakura blossoms are all finished in Tokyo, but the Chichibu region still has a few flowers on the sakura trees and with other trees and shrubs in full bloom the landscape was alive with color today as you can see in the photos below.

The tree in this next photo is also typical of several we saw - with both white and pink blossoms.

Bridge scene along the route.

As we headed east we came across this huge display of koinobori- "carp streamer" - which are carp-shaped wind socks. They are traditionally flown in Japan to celebrate Tango no Sekku, a traditional event which is now designated as a National holiday, Children's Day, which will be on May 5th this year.

The display is on the hillside by the Jinryu River in the town of Kanna. There are 800 flags in the display. The town usually holds a festival when the koinobori are put on display, but one of the residents told us that the festival was cancelled this year in light of the earthquake and tsunami last month.

Along the route we stopped for a short walk through the Onouchi Valley. Unfortunately, it was a very short walk as the old footbridge that crossed the river apparently was washed away some time ago. However, this new suspension bridge remains and offers a good view of the small waterfall in the valley.

There are more interesting hikes and walks in the Chichibu region than this little valley, but it does have a small area jam packed with shakunage shrubs (Tsukushi rhododendron / part of the azalea family), which should be in full bloom in the next few days.

Oh - and one last bit - spotting a 500 yen car wash we pulled in to get a few days of post-rain filled days worth of grime off the old chariot. Madam Wife was amazed that for 500 yen they not only washed the wheels, by hand, with a brush, but they also wiped the car dry and even gave the interior a quick wipe to get rid of accumulated dashboard dust. Japan service "strikes" again!

Earthquake, Tsunami, Tragedy - yet the Sakura blooms (and a street level view of the tsunami)

It's been a while since I've posted to this blog and of course, much has happened in Japan since my last posting. The Great East Japan Earthquake (so named by the prime minister) and the subsequent tsunami, followed by the nuclear plant isues, have been on probably just about every news channel and other media in the world.

I've also written a few articles during this time, which you can read at www.majiroxnews.com if you want.

An old army friend in the states also sent me the link to this YouTube Video. It's a street level view of the tsunami inundating the camera person's town. Frightening to watch and heart breaking to see the damage it caused.

Despite the news reports that friends and family around the world have read - trust me - Tokyo remains safe. The radiation levels are safe. The water is safe. People are going about their business and getting on with their lives. Yes, there are minor (minor given the comparison to what the poor folks up in Tohoku have been through and continue to live with) inconviences. Some trains may be delayed at times if power outages occur, but those are - thanks to the great efforts of everyone to conserve electricity - very limited. Dairy products are in short supply because of the ban on such products from the Fukushima area. Same with some vegetables. But short supply doesn't mean no supply and the necessary items are very available.

With April upon us the sakura trees are beginning to blossom. Today we walked along the Sumida River with old friends and the trees are from 30% to 50% in bloom. The news reports tell us that the yakata-bune (the boats that ply the Sumida River with cherry viewing party goers enjoying food and drinks) are experiencing a major downturn in business - 80 to 90%. Certainly, the yakata-bune we saw on the river today were mostly empty. However, one park beside the river was very well populated with o-hanami (blossom viewing) parties. So was the park behind our home when my wife walked through it yesterday. People were sitting on the usual blue plastic sheets, eating, drinking, talking, playing music, and having a good time.

Life can, must, and does go on.

More shaking

Awoke this morning - always a positive! - to learn that Niigata and Nagano both had earthquakes this morning around 04:00. Magnitude 6. Less than Miyagi's 8.8 yesterday but still major.

News reports say 1300+ now dead or missing.
And warnings of major aftershocks for the next month.

Chiba, which is along the east coast, like Miyagi is (& where Narita airport is located) & Ibaragi prefecture, just above Chiba, has severe damage too.

Download the eq survival manual at

http://www.seikatubunka.metro.tokyo.jp/index3files/survivalmanual.pdf

Hoe Hearts

Spring was in the air this balmy March 6th Sunday as I set out for my 10,000 steps walk (actually did over 11,000).

Within a minute of leaving our condo's front door I knew that spring must really be just around the corner (I had just gone around the corner) when I spotted this fellow, shovel in hand, tilling the soil for his summer garden.

Those little stakes mark out one of the 126 mini-garden plots in this field that are available for rent by residents of our ward. A quick online check showed me that there are actually 1,564 of these little plots available around the ward for a small rental fee of 3,000 yen. I know that some people manage to rent a couple of them and one restaurant in our neighborhood (Happy Go Lucky - Mexican Restaurant) uses the vegetables they grow for some of their fresh, tasty dishes during the summer & autumn months.

Would you like to try your hand at "gentleman farming"? Click here if you want to see a list of all such spots available in Tokyo.  You'll have to be able to read Japanese (or use Google Translate) to find out about the procedure for applying. Or, you can call your local ward office and ask.

Many people enjoy growing their own vegetables and getting a bit of dirt under their fingernails on the weekends. Some even have all tools to avoid the dirty fingernails; like this little tractor I spotted in another field a few blocks further on. This was a bigger field so the tractor may be used by just one farmer in this field or it may be for community use - no signs spotted for information.

Some even go to great lengths to have fresh veggies and maybe a few flowers year round as evidenced by this roof top greenhouse I saw.

Others may have a few pots on their veranda. That's what I did last summer with my tomato garden. Okay, my tomato plant. But the two tomatoes I got from it were good!

Of course, vegetables are not the only use for a nice garden and this condo building courtyard I spotted decided to make good use of their common courtyard by planting flowers, trees, and even a nice stone lantern.

So, there you go! Farming in Tokyo. Break out that hoe. Dust off that shovel. Head to the plant store and stock up on a few seedlings and next thing you know your family will be dining on home grown corn and maybe even organic goodies!

A manual for surviving in an earthquake

Our hearts go out to all those lost and injured in the Christchurch earthquake this week and the many lost in countless other earthquakes in many countries in the past.

Living in Japan we have personally experienced numerous earthquakes over the years and we have been fortunate; no injuries, no damage.

Japan has an average of 6 earthquakes every day. That's over 2,000 per year or roughly 20% of the total in the world. Most are very small and not even felt by many people, but every few months we get a good shaker. In 1995 more than 6,400 souls perished in the great Hanshin earthquake (Kobe) when a magnitude 7.2 earthquake struck the region.

In November 2010 a 6.6 magnitude quake caused large buildings in Tokyo to sway, but Japan's earthquake construction regulations kept them from toppling over.

What can you do if the "big one" strikes? Read the downloadable Earthquake Survival Manual (it's bilingual) that was prepared by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.  Download it today at: this site.

Foreigners working for Japanese companies

Many of my connections on LinkedIn were generous enough to give me their input. Names are mentioned where I can, anonymity is respected where requested, and although I couldn't include all the comments I thank each and everyone who gave me their input.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Nihongo hansemasu ka? Can you speak Japanese?

Many foreigners who work in Japanese companies can answer that question in the affirmative with a resounding “Hai!” Morgan Shimizu, an American working for Aero Asahi Corporation said that working for a Japanese corporation “has taught me how and when to say things as well as when not to say things.”

Timothy Marshall, a New Zealander working in the semi-conductor industry for Samco, Inc. confirmed this. He said, “I learned the word anisotropic in Japanese before I learned it in English!”

Will the need to speak Japanese continue or will English become the lingua franca for Japanese corporations? Japan news reports have been awash lately with talk of Japanese  companies globalizing operations, hiring more foreigners, holding meetings in English, and requiring Japanese staff who hope to be promoted to management positions to undergo English language training. One such company is Rakuten, operator of Japan’s largest Internet mall, which has reported it will make English its official in-house language by the end of 2012 as part of its efforts to go global. However, one non-Japanese Rakuten employee, who asked to remain anonymous to avoid work repercussions told me that while Rakuten may be requiring Japanese managers to learn English working there has actually helped him learn more Japanese because as he stated, “The business language is 98% Japanese.”

However, not everyone finds working in a Japanese company beneficial to learning the language. 29 year old Dane, Steffen Johnstad-Moeller, who until very recently worked for a Japanese shipping company says, “Actually I learn more from taking [Japanese language] classes. When people speak internally they speak way too fast for me to understand, so I didn’t learn more Japanese than if I would have been working for a foreign company.”

Regardless of the language used when working for a Japanese company one may wonder if discrimination ever rears its ugly head. The situation varies from company to company, but in most cases there is surprisingly little discrimination against foreign workers. When asked if he ran into any discrimination issues Samco’s Marshall stated, “Quite the opposite. Being a foreigner I am able to speak my mind without being judged, unlike my Japanese colleagues.”

Patty Nameishi, Business Consultant and Principal at US-Japan Connect is an American female who has also worked for Kenzo, Tange, and Associates told us that when it came to discrimination it was actually just the opposite;  “They were too nice to me because I was a foreign woman.” 

As Shimizu emphasizes, “Japanese do not intend to [discriminate]. It seems that they are unaware when they do such things (such as the simple question ‘Why are white people so fat?’).”

There are, of course, pluses and minuses to working for a Japanese company. Professionalism and loyalty to employees are often cited as one of the more positive aspects. “Not worrying about whether or not I’ll have a job next week” is one of the pluses pointed out by Shimizu. On the other hand he says the atmosphere can sometimes be a downer for someone who enjoys a bit of joviality; “There are no real big laughs in the office. People are very impersonal.” 

Marshall really likes the close friendships, relations and support that you build with your new ‘family’ but he would like to see less risk adversity and resistance to change from his Japanese colleagues.

Still, that loyalty and stability can also lead to a lack of basic rights. As one Osaka based foreign designer, who asked to remain anonymous told us, “In a Japanese company the employee is generally entitled only to the basic right of having stable employment. Other than that, it seems as if you are at the complete disposal of the company. They are entitled to ask anything of you, and it will always be culturally difficult to refuse. Workers accept this, and thus are required to make family, health and personal sacrifices in order to meet the demands placed on them.”

The how’s and why’s to a job in a Japanese company are as varied as the foreigners who work in them. As a Japanese speaking American, Andy Kato, who works in the medical devices industry joined his company through a recruiter who had a specific mandate to find Japanese speaking American with extensive business development experience. Kato hopes that working for a Japanese company will help him with his goal of someday owning his own company. He says that working for a Japanese company will help him “learn what makes successful Japanese companies tick while understanding why they cannot deliver outside of Japan.”

Marshall, who was introduced to his company through his university professor chose a 150 person Japanese venture business over a famous big 4 consultancy firm because he wanted to be involved in international business from the start of his career. According to him, “It’s been a blast!  In three years I’ve taken over leadership of our European area, signed on new distributors and agents, and visited customers in America, Russia, Australia, Germany and Italy.”

So, what advice do these foreigners have for others who hope to work for a Japanese company now or in the future?

Kato says, “You must always be flexible and prepare yourself for anything uncustomary. Make sure you understand the balance of power in the company before you sign the contract.”

Shimizu advises that, ”You surrender your independent thoughts. You might join as a web designer but if you are asked to go to sales you really don't have a choice. Once you become part of the family you act as part of the family.”

Nameishi, with her 20 years of Japan experience sums it up by saying, “Embrace the culture; enjoy the journey, do not be afraid to ask questions when you do not understand, and do not be afraid to share your opinions - just do so very gently and respectfully.”

 

 

 

 

Heartful service

Thursday night brought heavy rain to Tokyo. Not so unusual, so why do I mention it?

Normally, when we have a rain filled night our morning papers are delivered wrapped in a thin clear plastic bag. But the Friday paper didn't get the plastic treatment and was delivered with wet corners, which I assume happened as the rain soaked the delivery man and the motorbike he rides to make his rounds.

Okay, so we got a paper that was a bit wet. Sure, a little more bother to turn the pages without ripping through the wet places, and the newsprint is a little harder to read on a rain soaked section, but I figured no big deal. I could still read it and the delivery guy was probably a lot more miserable tooling around in the cold rain than I was reading a damp newspaper at my warm dining table. (Of course, if I eventually make the switch to an iPad and an online paper, and THAT gets wet then I will have a problem.)

Arriving home on Friday evening I found a fresh, dry newspaper waiting for me. Odd, I thought. Did something super newsworthy happen that caused the Herald Tribune or the Asahi Newspaper put out a special evening edition? Nope, that wasn't the case.  My wife said there was a letter with the paper apologizing for delivering a wet newspaper that morning and for any inconvenience caused by having to decipher wet newsprint.

Now comes the part where my wife (who is Japanese, remember) and I don't quite see eye to eye.  My thoughts were, if the delivery guy knew the paper was wet when he delivered it why not just keep that wet paper in his basket and give me a dry paper instead of bringing another (same) newspaper later that day when the sun was shining, so his customers could have a dry paper. It's not like the one he delivered in the morning wouldn't dry out, or I need to save that paper for some reason, or that I had called and complained (I didn't).

Madam Wife however took a more Japanese view. She said that the delivery man thought about his customers and knew that most of them like to read the paper early in morning before leaving for work or the day's chores. And, it was most likely that all the papers were wet (my thought interjected here - okay, he knew it was raining, it had been all night, so why no plastic to begin with or at least some protection over the papers in his basket?) and he didn't want to keep people from reading the news even if it meant reading a watery version. But, because of the inconvenience caused he later delivered a fresh, dry paper along with an apology letter (sort of reminds me of those company heads and politicians who do the deed then bow to the cameras to apologize - maybe empty but has meaning to the Japanese).

Service above and beyond or apologizing after the horse escaped from the barn.....?

So, there you have it faithful readers. Just another small insight into the differences in western and Japanese thinking. But, having said that, it does show the service mentality that is still one of the key good ingredients to life in Japan and that's just one of the things that keeps me here in good old Nippon.

Old Hearts to Pay More

Japan's insurance companies are planning to up the price that older drivers have to pay for their car insurance effective from April 2011.  Drivers 70 and over will be paying 8% more for their insurance premiums.

The reason is, according to Sompo Japan the insurance company that plans to be first with this rate increase, older drivers have more accidents. Other insurers are sure to follow this practice as they say their profitability in the auto insurance line of business has decreased due to this aging of the Japanese society. As Japan ages, with nearly 25% of the population in the 65+ bracket, insurance companies are looking for ways to increase profitability.

It isn't only the insurance companies that are concerned with the increase in the number of accidents by these older drivers. The National Police Agency launched a cognitive test, which was formulated with the help of dementia experts, and is a requirement for anyone 75 and over when they renew their license. In the first year of this test (2009 - 2010) over 760,000 people were examined and it was determined that 39 of them have dementia. More than 14,000 were found to be suffering from declining memory (hey, no wonder we can't find our keys!) and judgment (we can beat that train!) and another 25% have memories that are "somewhat" declining.

Not only is Japan's population decreasing After this year's Coming of Age ceremonies, held on Jan. 10, which is for anyone turning 20 it was announced that only 0.6% of Japan's population is now 20 years old. With fewer & fewer young people, and the gray hairs taking over, it looks like the police are going to be busier than ever giving these cognitive tests, as long as those aging policemen can remember where they put the pencils!

Parcel Hearts

USING TAKKYUBIN (PARCEL DELIVERY SERVICE)  IN JAPAN

One of the great services offered in Japan is home-to-home, or business-to-home, or business-to-business delivery service for documents, sports gear, computer equipment, food, wine, and just about anything else you can think of that needs to be delivered quickly and economically. You can even have your luggage sent to or from the airport so you don’t have to bother lugging it on and off the trains on your trip home. One of the most widely used services is the shipment of golf clubs from home to golf courses and back, which makes it a lot easier for the golfers to take the train to their next game without the hassle of lugging a bag full of clubs along.

There are a variety of companies offering delivery services with some of the more commonly know names being Yamato, Kuroneko, Pelican, and Sagawa.

You can have the package picked up at your office or home by calling one of the Takkyubin companies to arrange the date and time. If your Japanese isn’t up to par for this have someone help you with the call since it will be rare to get an English speaker on the phone. You’ll also need to complete a shipping form (motobarai form). Motobarai means that you, the sender, will pay the shipping charge. If it isn’t convenient for you to wait at home for the delivery man to pick up the package you can also drop your package off at a Takuhaibin Service Center or most any convenience store such as 7-11, Lawson, or Family Mart, or any shop displaying a takuhaibin sign. Many stores also have an in-house service to ship your purchases to your home or office so you don’t have to carry them around all day as you continue to shop or make your way home on a crowded train.

 

Delivery is typically done the next day, but in some cases same-day delivery may be possible depending on location and time of shipping.  Sending packages (or golf clubs) to more distant destinations like Hokkaido or Okinawa may require two days.  It’s even possible to specify drop-off times such as “between 09:00 – 11:00” in most instances.

Shipping is very reasonably priced. The actual amount depends on the size and weight of the parcel, the type of goods you are sending, and the destination.  The following chart shows expected amounts:

Regular parcel (30 cm x 30 cm x 30cm, less than 10 kg)
Within the greater Tokyo area: 1,200 Yen
From Tokyo to Osaka/Kyoto: 1,300 Yen
From Tokyo to Kyushu: 1,600 Yen
From Tokyo to Hokkaido: 1,600 Yen
From Tokyo to Okinawa: ,2300 Yen

Suitcase (80 cm x 40 cm x 30cm, less than 25 kg)
Within greater Tokyo area: 1,800 Yen
From Tokyo to Osaka/Kyoto: 1,900 Yen
From Tokyo to Kyushu: 2,200 Yen
From Tokyo to Hokkaido: 2,200 Yen
From Tokyo to Okinawa: 3,900 Yen
Tokyo to Narita Airport: 2,400 Yen
Osaka/Kyoto to Kansai Airport: 2,400 Yen

But, what if you are shipping something to someone that they’ve asked you to send and you don’t want to pay the shipping costs? In that case, the Takkyubin companies offer a C.O.D. service known as chakubarai which means “pay on arrival.” Even Japan Post offers chakubarai for packages sent through its Yu-Pack service.

To use chakubarai the sender simply completes a chakubarai form, instead of a motobarai form. Both forms are only available in Japanese, so as per the phone call to the Takkyubin company, if you don’t read Japanese get someone to help you complete the form. Names and addresses can be done in English, but it helps the Takkyubin company if you they are done in Japanese). The delivery charge is collected in cash when the package is delivered to the recipient. Takkubyin companies generally add 100 yen onto the shipping charge for chakubarai service. 

However, in the event the recipient’s address is wrong, or he or she rejects the package, or they are just never home and cannot be reached, the Takkyubin company will bring the package back to you for and you will be required to make payment. Takkyubin companies do make multiple delivery attempts and phone calls to try to deliver the package though before bringing it back to you. Keep in mind that if you are sending a package using chakubarai you should provide the Takkyubin company with the recipient’s full name, home and mobile phone numbers, and an accurate address.  Do not use “in care of" as the package may not be delivered and you’ll get the package back and a bill to boot. It’s also a good idea to ask the recipient to provide a back-up address such as their office in the event they are never home during the very broad delivery hours.

As for packaging, the Takkyubin companies are quite liberal. Unless you are sending fragile items you may use just about anything for the package. It’s quite common to send items in a cardboard box or even just a simple shopping bag. Those heavy duty plastic or paper bags that you get when you buy goods from many department stores, and some supermarkets for example, can be used as a shipping package. Just make sure they are sealed tightly with strong tape and that the shipping label is securely affixed.

If you send a lot of package you may want to look into Hacoboon, which is a discount service from Yamato.  

Registration and delivery ordering is done online. The payment is also online if you register a credit card. An ID will be generated with each delivery order. You then take the package to any Family Mart and enter the ID into the terminal to get a voucher, which you give to the cashier. The cashier will check for any outstanding payments before printing out the invoice for the package. You can also elect to receive an e-mail notice when the invoice has been printed and the package has been delivered.

 

Statistical Hearts

On Monday I attended a dinner where a doctor from Tokai University Hospital gave a talk about "anti-aging" and the effects of the aging Japan population statistics.

Here are a few facts from the doctor's speech:

+ It took a few thousand years forJapan's population to hit 100 million in 1967. By 2050 - only 93 years later - it is expected to go under 100 million as Japan's population ages & fewer babies are born.

+ 20%+ of the population is over 65. By 2030 that will be closer to 35%.

+ By 2050 Japan's GDP will rank #8 . 1, 2, 3 will be China, India, USA.

Like many countries in the world, Japan is aging, but it still has the longest life expectancy in the world at an average of 82.6 years (males 79; females 86.1).  That compares to the USA's 78.2 (M-75.6; F-80.8) and is leaps and bounds ahead of Swaziland's 31.9 average.

Obesity is creeping into Japan (supersize me seems to be the growing motto of some fast food places), but still far behind the USA. Obesity levels:  Japan 3.2%; USA 30.6% (Percentage of population with BMI over 30).

Japan is the slimmest industrialized nation and people fight fat to ward off the dreaded metabolic syndrome. Metabolic syndrome, or as it is better known here “metabo,” is a combination of health risks including fat around the stomach, high blood pressure and high cholesterol; all issues that can lead to cardiovascular disease and diabetes.

In fact, Japan is so "metabo" concious that the lawmakers actually set a maximum size for waistlines for those 40 and older: 85 centimeters (33.5 inches) for men and 90 cm. (35.4 in.) for women. This "metabo law" is supposed to stave off health risks related to obesity and save money for the national health system in the long run.

This has brought about an upswing in the number of people going to gyms, buying fitness equipment (call right now! operators are standing by!), and guzzling herbal diet remedies in an effort to shed a few kilos. But, some doctors say that many Japanese are already too thin as it is.

One professor of medicine at Tokai University who is also one of the leading critics of the law said, "The amount of food calories which the Japanese intake is decreasing from 10 years ago. So there is no obesity problem as in the USA. To the contrary, there is a problem of leanness in young females.”

I'll attest to that! Just look at the "skinny" young ladies - and in fact many young men - as you walk around the streets of Tokyo. (Note, I haven't noticed this same lean "problem" when visiting the coutryside since people there tend to drive more than walk, hence fewer calories burned per day?)

Now, if I could only come up with a recipe for Metabo Ice Cream.....

 

 

 

Know Your Ice From A Hole In The Ground.....

...especially if the ice in the hole was once sent to government officials at the Edo Castle during the Edo period (1603-1867). The hole in this instance is actually a 21 meter deep cave near Mount Fuji known as the Narusawa Ice Cave.

 

Below is an English version of the above "map" courtesy of this website: http://www.flickr.com/photos/maynard/269269763/

 

With a beautiful autumn day beckoning us last Sunday (Nov. 7, 2010) we headed out for a visit to this cave, as well as the nearby Wind Cave, and Lake Sai (Saiko).

The temperature in the cave on this sunny day was 0C (32F). That's enough to preserve a little of the ice that builds up in the cave over the winter months, but I expect it will be more interesting when the dripping water builds up the ice pillars that grow to 3 feet or more in height.

Entering the cave requires a bit of caution as the steps are wet and slippery, but there are thick bamboo handrails to hold on to so it's not a problem for most people. In fact, many of the kids who came out of the cave were begging their parents to let them go in again. There is one part that requires a low duck-walk and do be careful of your head as the ceiling is low in a few places (ouch! personal experience). It's actually a pretty small cave and the walk through it can be done in about 10 minutes.

The ice cave (Hyouketsu in Japanese) was formed in the year 864 when Mt. Nagaoyama erupted. As the lava cooled the cave was carved out by hot gasses and molten lava flowing out. In the winter the underground water freezes creating the ice pillars that sometimes connect the ceiling and floor. These pillars usually grow from February to March and the nature guide for the area says the best month to see them is in April. On the day we visited, even after an especially hot summer in Japan, there was still a bit of ice in the cave.

Entrance to the cave costs 280 yen for adults (130 for children), but you can buy a 500 yen ticket that also includes entrance to the Fugaku Wind Cave (Lave Cave). Having bought the multi-ticket we left the ice cave and drove a couple of minutes down the road to the Wind Cave (on the Japanese website it is also called "Lave Cave"). You can also walk through the forest from the Ice Cave to the Wind Cave (about 15-20 minutes).

The trail from the parking lot to the Wind Cave is a 2 or 3 minute walk, but take time to have a look at the tree roots to see how tenacious these trees were to have grown in the magma from the lava flow. The roots grow along the magma and seek all the crevices to establish their hold on the rocks.

This cave is a bit longer and about halfway through the cave you'll come to the ice pond. At this time of the year there is only a tiny bit of ice in the pond, but I expect it will be like a mini skating rink come winter. Just past the ice pond are racks holding cans full of acorns and other seeds. The cave was used to store these seeds for periods of 2 years or more. There are also cans of silkworm cocoons, which were kept in the cool cave to keep the silkworms from maturing into moths, thus producing silk for a longer time.

Leaving the caves we headed down Route 710 for Saiko (Lake Sai). This is a small lake, but on the day we were there the lake was dotted with small boats full of people fishing. The trees were just beginning to wear their autumn outfits and within the next week or two the sides of the mountains surrounding the lake should be bursting with autumn colors. Driving past the lake we make a short stop at the bird sanctuary, but we left that for another day since we weren't prepared for the longer hike necessary to see the park and birds. Continuing along the north shore of the lake we came to Cafe M, which I definitely recommend for a lunch stop. Sitting out on their open deck, with a view of the lake and some nicely colored momiji (Japanese maple) trees beside the deck, we enjoyed the warm fall day as well as Cafe M's great food. I had their homemade Chinese style pork sandwich in pita bread while my wife had their salmon cream sauce pasta. Both were excellent and I suspect their homemade desserts would be just as good, but the portions were generous and we were full enough - another thing for "next time." The ladies at the next table were enjoying the homemade (see a trend here?) ginger ale. I missed that on the menu so that's also for next time.

Departing Saiko we headed for Kawaguchiko (Lake Kawaguchi). With the maple trees in full autum splendor, and hundreds of people walking the sidewalks and crossing the road, the traffic around this lake inched along, but given the beauty of the trees we enjoyed the (very slow) ride. From Kawaguchiko you can return to Tokyo or do as we did and make your way to another of the 5 lakes, Lake Yamanaka and from there drive back to Tokyo via the backroads through Doshimura and either go past Lake Sagami and catch the Chuo Expressway back to Tokyo; or avoid the Sunday expressway traffic and follow the regular highways back to Tokyo.

Getting there: From Tokyo take the Chuo Expressway until you come to the Kawaguchiko branch (to your left). Follow this branch of the expressway to the Kawaguchiko exit and follow highway 139 to the cave's entrance (it's clearly marked). A map is available here: http://fujigoko.info/icecave/ice-access.html

If you're not driving take the JR Chuo Line to Otsuki Station (one hour by limited express from Shinjuku). Chagne to the Fujikyuko Line and go to Kawaguchiko Station (55 minutes) then take a bus to the cave (25 minutes).

Subtle aging Hearts

I saw a commercial for a Panasonic toilet on TV this evening. Why is this remarkable, you may well ask.

The commercial was for a toilet that cleanses and sanitizes with each flush. Again, what's so remarkable?

Nothing so remarkable about that, but the subtle part was that the toilet has handles.

 

Without coming right out and saying it the underlying message is that Japan's population truly is aging and by seeing this sort of handles arrangement in an everyday commercial the subliminal message is there - your next toilet should have handles because you're getting old!

Today, being Sunday, we went for a hike to one of the places we go once or twice a year; Nishizawa Keikoku (Valley) in Yamanashi.

As we hiked up the trail and climbed up the rocks and even the wooden steps that the prefecture has built into the trail, the pace was set by a large group of people in front of us. Yep, you guessed it, all people in their late 60s or early 70s (actually, I rather liked the pace, but it is a bit slower than even we early 60-somethings typically do on our hikes).

Japan is not the only country with an aging population of course, but Japan's seniors do seem to be a very active lot.

Yet, when it comes to work, Japanese companies still don't seem to have grasped the fact that the 55+ crowd is still a very productive group of people. Just try finding a job if you're in your 50s - nearly impossible; in your 60s - even more so. In fact, even for many in their 40s the job market remains closed. I've met dozens of people over the last 5 years who are in this age range (40+) and believe me, more companies reject them because of age than one would find believable. What a shame - so much talent just going to waste - and even though there are labor laws that make age discrimination illegal; well, good luck!

 

Sports Day - good for the Heart(s)

Oct. 11 - Sports Day - a National Holiday in Japan and since it is on a Monday it means we all got a 3-day weekend to engage in some sports and enjoy the outdoors.

Unless, of course, it's a rainy Saturday to start the weekend. No outdoor sports today, but yours truly did get up and away from the keyboard long enough to head to the gym and get an hour in for a decent workout.  Of course, the berry tart I had at the Cafe-Restaurant Milieu probably made up for any calories worked off at the gym. BTW, if you haven't been to Milieu yet get yourself on over. Not fancy, but very good food and very, very reasonable prices (2,100 yen for 3 courses + coffee!).  And that's at dinner time.  Lunch is only 1,200 yen.

Sunday started out a bit wet, but Mother Nature decided we had had enough rain & she parted the clouds to show us some nice blue sky before noon. With half a day of decent weather left we decided to take a short drive (distance depends on how you go - we opted for the Ome Kaido route - not the shortest, but more interesting than the expressway) out to the Tama River to see if any trees were putting on their autumn dresses yet. Nope - still all pretty green, but the river was running fast & deep & we were able to watch several kayakers (although they call them canoes here) practicing for the canoe races to be held on Monday.  

Below are a few photos of the canoes and their wet riders as they surged through the rapids and around the rocks.

Starting "line" for the canoe races

Practice makes perfect!

Through those gates!  Now back again!

Time for a breather.....

Walking along the Tama is an easy hike (okay, walk) for just about anyone regardless of physical condition (or not). Plan on about 90 minutes for a round-trip walk starting from the free parking lot that is on the west side of the river, up to the fishing area, and back down the other side. More time for stopping and looking - so maybe 2 1/2 hours or so altogether. The east side is fairly flat, all paved, and a very easy walk. The west side has a few ups & downs, some steps, and some areas where the trail is dirt or stones.

You can pack a picnic and stop along the river to watch the activities as you eat your lunch. You may see rafters (yes, you can take a raft ride down the river & through the "rapids"), the boulderers (like rock climbing, but on big boulders), the fishermen (get a license if you're gonna try this), and the kayakers - canoers (canoeists?).

Or, you can buy lunch at one of the restaurants along the river from coffee shops to soba restaurants (this one below requires a hike up a steep hill / steps):

           Soba restaurant on top of the hill

Coming back we opted for the expressway since it was dark (dark at 17:30 in Japan at this time of the year) and quicker - even with a bit of the inevitable traffic jam. Using the express you can get on the Ken-o, which connects to the Chuo or you can follow highway 411 and the signs for the Chuo.

Monday - actual Sports Day - and we decided that a bicycle ride was the way to spend this nice sunny day. Three hours of actual riding, with a stop for a bit of lunch & a cold Asahi Draft added to that 3 hours, and a break to watch the show put on by the 80 year old gentleman who is famous (but we don't know his name) for his Buyoh style dance that seems to be his interpretation of the angst for lives lost in wars (at least that was a bit of the explanation in the newspaper yesterday). He supposedly has been doing this for years & has done his dance all over the world.  

Preparations.....

Up close.....

We left the show a bit puzzled as to the meaning of each dance, but he definitely had an appreciative audience if the paper & tissue wrapped donations tossed his way were any indication.

The fnal hour of our ride took us along the backroads till we came to the junction of the Kanda & Zenpukuji Rivers. We opted to follow the Kanda River and that took us most of the way home till we hit the big fence where access is blocked for flood control construction. But a slight detour and it was home again time - and a nice cold Michelob to wrap up a great Sports Day (whoops, there goe those calories again!).

 

 

Harbor Hearts

A bright warm autumn day, no red lines on the car navigation system for the Tomei (means no traffic jams) and an early morning (for us) start. Off to the Izu Peninsula we go!

Heading down the Tomei Expressway we got off at the Numazu Interchange and eventually found our way to highway 1, which took us to Shuzenji (if you go you can also take highway 414 to connect to highway 1).

Having been to Shuzenji a few  times we just passed through, but we did stop just outside of Shuzenji for a leg stretching walk through the Shuzenji Nature Park. I expect that park will be a beautiful site in a few more weeks when the 1,000+ momiji (Japanese Maple) trees put on their autumn dresses and turn bright red as they are caught in the act. Shuzenji is a fantastic place to spend a night in an onsen and if you haven't been to Shuzenji I suggest you put it on your must-see list.

Leaving the park we headed on across highway 15 where we stopped for this fantastic view of Heda Harbor from one of the scenic view spots along the way.

Seen from high above the harbor is a pretty and peaceful picture. Actually, it turns out it is best seen from above and afar. Up close it's a bit of a mess of fishing boats and fishing gear along a concrete wall. But, those boats do bring in good crab and fresh fish.

Still, we didn't spot anywhere that looked enticing enough for lunch so we drove on down the road till we got to another harbor town, Toi, where we found a fresh fish and sushi restaurant called Matsu-No-Ie (House of the Pine).  Well prepared sushi for lunch hit the spot. Below is a photo of their 1,900 yen set - very decent sushi for this price - in Tokyo I expect we'd pay more for the same sushi.

Heading out from Toi  we continued along the western Izu coast till we got to Shimoda, then on to Ito. From there we headed in the direction of Atami on highway 135 and eventually made our way back on to the Tomei - oh yeah, there those red lines are! A bit of a jam between Atsugi and Yokohama-Machida, but from there on in to Tokyo it was pretty clear sailing.

10 hours and 400 kilometers later and it's home again time!

If you're going to make this drive either plan to go on Saturday and spend the night in one of the great onsens in Suzenji or Yugawara, or make it an early Sunday start with a plan to spend the whole day, as we did. But, do try to avoid the route through Hakone unless you like to sit in traffic for very long periods of time.

Sushi Secrets

Last night Madame Wife & I decided to give a "new" (to us) sushi restaurant a try:  Naito Sushi, 3-33-3 Hamadayama, Suginami Ku (TEL: 03-3302-4763). The shop has been here for 9 years & owner/chef Naito-san has been in the business for about 20 years.

Are we glad we tried it? You bet! This is one of the best sushi shops we've been to. Itamae (Sushi Chef) Naito does sushi very, very well.

I commented on a recent article I had read about how the taste of sushi changes depending on how tightly packed the rice is. Naito-san said, "Not only how tightly (i.e., how many grains of rice in a nigiri - the rice "ball" in sushi), but also how much air the chef puts into it." He explained that the purpose of folding and refolding the rice into the right shape a few times is one of the secrets of good sushi. The "folding" process adds air to the rice - that is, air between the grains - which keeps the rice less tightly packed and causes the rice to "melt" in the mouth & blend well with the fish.

At most sushi shops you get a small dish to put soy sauce into (I'm sometimes appalled at how much soy sauce some people, usually non-Japanese, put on their sushi; remember folks, just lightly touch the fish - NOT the rice - to the soy sauce - after all, it's not meant to be a soy sponge). No such little dishes at Naito Sushi (except for the sashimi). The sushi is already lightly salted, or brushed with the chef's soy based sauce, so no additional sauce is needed. This was another first - and definitely a good experience. Chef Naito's method means you should eat the sushi soon after it's placed in front of you; otherwise, it may fall apart as you try to pick it up, but then again, who wants to sit & admire the sushi for a long period. After all, it's meant to be eaten!

Another of Naito-san's 'secrets' is to get up early & be at the Tsukiji Fish Market before 5:00 A.M. to pick out the fish he'll be serving that day. He likes to serve only fish that are in season on the day, which means you'll get the freshest possible fish and some interesting varieties. We had several that we've never had before - all scrumptious - even the shellfish, which are usually not my favorite. Naito Sushi's shellfish are the most tender I've ever had at a sushi shop.

Mrs. Naito does a great job of recommending the right sake to go with the sushi. We tried two of her recommendations: Kagatobi (Ishikawa Prefecture), which is smooth with a slight essence of banana. Next was Tsumoru (Nagano Prefecture). It starts out with a slight anise taste and has a bit of yellowish tint in the glass. Now, unlike wine, sake usually doesn't change flavor as it "opens" in the glass, but this one did. Later sips had very little of that first taste of anise, but there is a bit more "bite" to this one than Kagatobi. Both very good sakes. Oh, and you might want to give the beer specialty of the house a try - a blend of Bass Ale and Asahi Super Dry - yumm!

And the price?  Plan on about 10,000 yen per head; depends on what, and how much, you eat & especially on how much you drink.  You can go lower or higher. If you want to keep within a certain budget it's always a good idea to let the chef know ahead of time, but if you just like to order the things you know, or try some new dishes, or drink a few more sake brands, then plan on a higher budget.

If all you've ever had is sushi at a 100 yen kai-ten (conveyor belt) sushi shop then you are definitely in for a super treat. Eat good sushi & you'll probably wonder why in the world anyone would eat kai-ten sushi (okay, it may have it's place, but.....). 

Bubbly Hearts

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There are certain friends here in Tokyo who do love their champagne. Okay, to name names, there is Cheryl (who often calls it "Champers"), and Amanda, who has been known to down a bottle (or two), and it is possible - though not yet proven - that Monica may enjoy a glass or so of the bubbly from time to time. And, not to leave out the gentlemen, Dominic & Eric may be afficianados; Terry? Not sure.

Now, having put it into the proper perspective, let me first say that as far as I know there are no Japanese wineries producing anything in the range of good Champagne or anything else sparkling. There may be some who claim to, but I suspect that if they are found out our French friends will send a Legion of chain-smoking, shaved head frogs hopping across the Pacific to deposit little piles of merde on the roots of the offending vines.

I have had (dare I admit it...) sparkling sake and all I can say is, if you spot it turn and run - don't walk, as fast as your little legs will carry you, to get away.

So, what's the point of all this you may well ask? (Well, go ahead and ask, because I'm about to tell you)!

I read an article in the IHT today, which I shall transpose below, on the proper way to pour Champagne into your Champagne glass. And no, we do not drink Champagne from paper cups; we save those for Akadama (ugh!).

So, on to the article:

To Enjoy Champagne, Treat It Like Beer, Study Says

Champagne may be a symbol of life at the top, but it is best poured into a tilted glass just like that other sparkling beverage, the plebeian beer, according to a new study.

That’s because the bubbles — or dissolved carbon dioxide — in Champagne release its aroma and cause a tingly feeling that heightens the drinking experience. The higher the concentration of bubbles, the better.

The best way to keep the bubbles in the beverage, as any beer drinker knows, is to let the liquid tumble gently down the side of a tilted glass.

When Champagne is poured into a glass held vertically, it loses twice the amount of bubbles, said Gerard Liger-Belair, the study’s lead author and a physicist at the University of Reims, in the heart of France’s Champagne region.

“There is more turbulence and more motion in the liquid in a vertical pour,” Dr. Liger-Belair said. “When you tilt the glass the liquid invades the glass with less force.”

The scientists measured bubbles in glasses of Champagne poured in the traditional way and in the beerlike way at three different temperatures.

They found that the loss of bubbles is further minimized when Champagne is served chilled.

Science, however, may not be enough to change the way a nation pours a drink.

“It would be very provocative to pour Champagne in this way for many French,” Dr. Liger-Belair said. “Champagne is a universe which is very traditionally bent.”

The study is published in The Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

So there you have it my bubbly imbibing friends and to illustrate the proper technique have a peek at the pictures below.   Top row = no!  Bottom row = yes! 

Till next time, Happy Sipping!

Cow Day Hearts (eat your eel!)

Doyo-no-ushi-no-hi (the cow day during the summer Doyo period) is supposed to be the hottest day in Japan, but I do believe somebody got the calendar a bit wrong as the last few days have been hotter, and hotter, and hotter each day it seems.

The end of each season is named Doyo, according to a Chinese philosophy called gogyo, and there are four Doyo periods per year. There can be one or two cow days during a Doyo period, and Doyo-no-ushinohi in summer falls between mid July and early August each year.

This is also the day one is supposed to eat eel - at least here in Japan. Of course, it's okay to eat eel any day, but the "purpose" of eating eel when it's hot is to overcome natsubate (summer fatigue). Many people believe that eating eel helps increase stamina and beat the summer heat.

The most common unagi (eel) dish is is "unadon" (eel bowl) and sometimes it's called "unagidon." It's made with charcoal grilled eel, coated with a sweet soy-based sauce, served on top of a bowl of rice.  

 
    Unagi Donburi

Variations include unajū, a very similar dish served in a lacquered box rather than a donburi bowl, nagayaki, where the eel and rice are served separately, and hitsumabushi (

small pieces of barbecued eel on rice. In the Kanto area (where Tokyo is located) the eel is roasted first, dipped into the sweet sauce, and then grilled with more sauce brushed on as it cooks. In Kansai, where Osaka is located, the process is similar, but the sauce is only applied during the grillin

However you eat it, eel is a tasty dish, and if you haven’t tried it (you’re not squeamish now, are you?) I recommend you give it a try.

Ghostly Hearts

It's the Obon holidays in Japan. Obon is the time of year to honor the spirits of one's ancestors. It's also when many Japanese return to their home towns - their jikka - to visit & clean up their ancestors' graves and meet with family & old friends. The spirits of the ancestors are supposed to revisit the household altars (butsudan) that most Japanese - at least the older generation - have in their homes.

                    A typical Butsudan

Butsudan can be very plain or quite elaborate with prices ranging from $35 to well over $18,000.

Obon has been celebrated in Japan for more than 500 years and traditionally includes a dance, known as Bon-Odori. Watch this video of a typical Bon-Odori.

The festival of Obon lasts for three days, but the starting date varies within different regions of Japan. When the lunar calendar was changed to the Gregorian Calendar at the beginning of the Meiji Era,  the localities in Japan reacted differently and this resulted in three different times of Obon. "Shichigatsu Bon" (Bon in July) is based on the solar calendar and is celebrated around 15 July in areas such as Tokyo, Yokohama and Tohoko (northern part of the main island of Honshu). "Hachigatsu Bon" (Bon in August) is celebrated around the 15th of August and is the most commonly celebrated time. "Kyu Bon" (Old Bon) is celebrated on the 15th day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar, and so differs each year. "Kyu Bon" is celebrated in areas like the northern part of the Kanto region, Chugoku, Shikoku, and the Southwestern islands.

These three days are not listed as public holidays but it is customary that people are given leave and many companies and offices may close.

Naturally, the highways are jam packed with cars especially since the government enacted reduced tolls -and even some areas of toll-free - on the expressways. It's not uncommon to sit in a 50 kilometer traffic jam if one is "foolish" enough to drive to their jikka. 

Tokyo is a quieter place during Obon and the traffic lightens up, trains are less crowded during the working day rush hours, but many more people are out & about shopping, eating, watching movies, and enjoyed the parks.